Khajuraro - India

So we head further East and a touch North to Khajurao known most famously for its karmasutra temples.

There used to be over 85 of these amazing and large sand stone carved temples now after Muslim - Hindu wars and erosion 22 survive today spread around this small village. The carvings and decorations are amazing let alone we are not talking about one temple but 22 (and we can only imagine what 85 would have looked like). They depict scenses showing every aspect of life including sex, but apparently the people who built these temples are a little more flexible than you or I when it comes to it. Also they don't seem to have been particularly bothered about having just one partner many carvings are of a group.
The insides of the temples howerer do not have any such scenses and are the sactuaries of there idols and there are quite a few different ones. Hence so many temples. The story goes that the leader of the time in that region had a dream in which he was told to build great temples to the gods showing every part of human life in all its detail and glory.

The main reason people believe the sex sences were so blaitant, detailed, acrobatic and involving groups was that these people also believed in tantrism. This means getting closer to god through tanric sex, thisinvloves karmasutra positions, I suppose you could compare it to Yoga which is also meant to bring you closer to god because the poses make you healthier. Well these people thought karmasutra made you happier and the feeling of being near to god. (they must have been a happy bunch)

All though once you have sene the first 5 or so of these temples it can get a bit repetative if you are not an archeologist. Not to say they are not impressive but seeing 22 all at once might make the last 10 you seen a little less impressive. Once again the scale of so many is quite insance when you see them up close.

The town istelf is also really nice, we sit in the market square and eat street food while drinking chai masal tea with the locals. Digby tries a local cigaret bascially a dried up leaf rolled with a tiny bit of tobacco all held together by a bit of string. He gets a little light headed, maybe the string is plastic? We don't know.

During the day we walk in the old town through the different cast area's, we see a school funded by charity money. Some Dutch people raised money for a water pump, some other sent pens and books. The character of the village is really lovely.

All in all a really nice calm place to visit, very friendly feeling. Great sites to see but also a nice ambience in the village, also very cheap compared to the rest of India so far.

Agra - India

So you go to India you have to see the Taj Mahal!!! One of the seven modern wonders of the world.

There is no doubt the Taj is beautiful, it is set in a stunning garden surounded but perfectly laid out gardens and imposing, impressive while still decorative gates. The experience hower is a little different as you are one of 1000's of visitors you jostle for position in front of the fountain to get that one important shot  the Taj looking like you are the only one there. As you try to take this picture people push and prod as they to try to get right into the middle to get that perfectly proporioned picture, after all the locals pay about 30p to get in and we have paid almost £10 so I really want that picture. (a feeling it seems every one else has to Then there are the professional photographers (read local guy with nice camera and printer trying to earn a living) asking you to move so they can get a nice picture of acouple staring meaningfully into each others eyes  infront of the Taj again pretending they are completly alone.
But once you have done this despitethe people, the group of Japense with the tour leader using a megaphone to address the group, it is really breath taking. By far the most stunning and lavinsh tomb/ dedication built by man bar perhaps the pyramids (one of the 7 ancient wonders of the world) but you cannot compare the two. This is about detail and lavish decoration all made of marble.
The inside is probably quite a beautiful and serence place, I was to destracted by the guards with sticks and helpers with whistles on a power trip. Pushing and jossteling you along shouting don't stop a whistle being blow very loudly deffining your ears as somebody either dares stop or an Asia tourist thinks the no pictures sign does not apply to them. Then there is the town of Agra not the nicest, more of an industrial town than anything.
If we were to go again I would pay the extra money to stay some were with a good view of the Taj so we could see it from the hotel in a calm athmospihire also I think it is especially beautiful by moon light. There is also a nature walk near to the Taj from were you can see it from different angles. Of course you must see the inside if you are there but as said because of all the other people and the Indian way of crowd management, we think the best views and impressive experience is from outside in the gardens or at a distance sit down quitly and take in it calmly in all its glory, it takes a while so you should take your time to absorb the view.
D+S

Jaipur- India

Jaipur, the pink city....
As all of the oldcity is painted pink as you pass through the main gate into a busteling bazzar of shops and traders. We did not have time to visit the amber fort, but did see the water palace and textile factories. The town famous for its colour but also Gem stones and silver. We visit several jewlers to see there selections but budget restrictions means we leave empty handed.
The ambience and feel of this city is really nice, more convivial than Jodhpur its ashame we dont have more time to spend exploring, but we must move on as if we get to Nepal and the Himilayia's to late the roads may be closed due to snow... so on we go to Agra city of the Taj Mahal!

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Jodhpur - India

Jodhpur.. The blue city! Also the Sun city.

There it apears many impressive forts in Rajistan ans on the way to Jodhpur we visit one, but the Meharanger fort we visit in Jodphur is amazing in that is is so much bigger more oppulent and more vast than anything else we have ever seen. The pictures do not even begin to give an idea of the scale of it, and more importantly every inch of window and interior is meticilously decorated with intricate carvings. Each one unique. There is so much history and so many views to take in our minds simply boggle as our senses are overloaded with fantastic architecture beautiful and functional as this fort was never taken by force, despite many canonball blast marks on the out walls ite resisted all attacks. Yet it is also a work of beauty at the same time.
Jodphur city itself is much bigger bussier and more hectic that Udaiphur, the people are more aggresive/ pushy in trying to sell you things and the over all feeling is not that open friendlyness we felt in Udaphur, but this is a much bigger city. Udaphur is very small and had almost a village like feeling to it.
The views from the Fort are amazing of the old town it truely is the blue city. Another highlight is the royal astroliger who reads Sofi's palms apparently she will have a long life, she is in a good relation ship now but if she doesn't like this man the next good one will come along when she is 27. (Digby decides not to tip him)
The more time we spend in India the more we realise you could spend a year here in India and still not see all of the amazing sites. The temples, palaces, forts and architecture in general are breath taking, pictures do not do justice to the scales and enoumety of these triumps of construction.

D+S

Udaipur - India

We moved to udaipur, incredible city! This is were the James Bond film Octopussy was filmed.
We arive at night no reservation, but the taxi driver has a plan and leaves his car in the middle of the street as he shows us several guest houses. Until we find one cheap enough for our budget, room looks clean has a fan and its own bathroom.
The owner Rahil comes and brings us tea and sits in the room while we fill out the forms, then he proudly takes us upstairs to the rooftop restaurant. We have an amazing view of the town and the lake, including the lake palace. Then we are taken to a smaller higher terrace for just the two of us to have a romantic dinner. This really is a great place, great views the sounds of a wedding procession in the background.

After diner we speak allot with Rahil he is very kind and offers to help arange many things of us, visiting sites and markets.

The next day Digby is very ill, he drank some tap water by mistake and spends the day in bed. All day long people from the hotel come to the room to ask if he is alright, if he needs a doctor, more water etc.

The day after we take a rikshaw tour of the town visiting many sites including the lake palace and the monsoon palace, as well as the inspiration for the Taj Mahal. That evening we ride with Rahil 3 of us on his motor bike around Udaiphur as he takes us to various markets and shops. He is also a jewlery designer.
That evening he invites us to dinner with is wife, we go to a traditional rajistani restaurant there is no menu people just keep coming to the table and giving you more food until you tell them to stop. Its a great and very authentic experience.

The next day we leave in the moring to go to Jodphur via alarge fort complex and amazin Jaide Temple, but before we leave Rahil has a gift from his wife for Sofie silver and turquise earings. After along good bye we leave.

We have never met people so kind and caring for strangers they have never met before, every one in Udaiphur was kind and helpful, but the hospitality Rahil and his family showed us really was increadible, perhaps the nicest person we have ever met. Muslim hospitality really is legendary.

D+S